How many tiles and boxes your floor really takes — cuts, breaks and layout waste already counted, so the store trip happens once.
The waste factor covers cuts along walls, the tile that snaps on the wet saw, and the one you drop. Straight lays lose about 10%; diagonal and herringbone patterns lose 15% because every edge tile gets cut at an angle. Small rooms with lots of corners waste proportionally more, not less.
But here's the reason to add one box beyond our number: dye lots. Tiles are batch-made, and a box bought six months later — same brand, same name — will be a slightly different shade. When a tile cracks in year three, that spare box in the garage is the only one on Earth that matches your floor. Check the lot numbers printed on the boxes match when you buy, too.
Box coverage varies by brand (it's printed on the box, usually 8–12 sq ft) — plug in the real number before you order.
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Start with the area you're covering (length × width), then divide by the area of one tile to get the tile count — but always order extra for waste. Straight layouts need about 10% extra for cuts and the odd broken tile; diagonal or herringbone patterns waste more, so budget 15%. Keeping a few spares from the same batch is smart too, since future replacements rarely match exactly.
For a 10 ft × 8 ft floor (80 sq ft) with 12×12-inch tiles (1 sq ft each), you need 80 tiles plus 10% = 88 tiles. Tiles come in boxes, so round up to whole boxes — if a box holds 10, buy 9 boxes (90 tiles). That extra box is your cushion for cuts, breakage, and a couple of keepsake spares.
How much waste should I add?
10% for a straight lay, 15% for diagonal or intricate patterns, and a bit more for rooms with lots of corners and cuts.
Why buy from the same batch?
Tile color and size vary slightly between production runs (the "dye lot"). Buying enough at once avoids visible mismatches.
Do I need extra for repairs later?
Yes — keeping a few matching tiles saves a frustrating hunt if one cracks down the road.